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Document number: 01050
Date: Fri 31 Jan 1823
Recipient: FEILDING Elisabeth Theresa, née Fox Strangways
Author: TALBOT William Henry Fox
Collection: British Library, London, Manuscripts - Fox Talbot Collection
Last updated: 20th April 2013

Naples,
Friday Jan. 31. 1823

I hope you have received a letter I wrote from Velletri & another from Mola di Gaeta. <1> On Wednesday we started just after sunrise, & had a lovely view looking back upon Mola di Gaeta. Just before passing the Garigliano we saw the ruins of Minturnæ, which consist of an Aqueduct still standing, & an amphitheatre ruined de fond en comble -<2> We passed the pretty town of Sessa at a little distance, & 16 miles further came to Capua, on the river Vulturnus, destitute of all variety. We then determined to go round by S. Maria (the ancient Capua) and the royal palace of Caserta – This is 4 or 5 miles further than the usual road by Aversa. We were much interested by the remains of the Amphitheatre of Capua, which is a noble ruin: the Arena is now a field of Lupins. Continuing, we passed two interesting ancient tombs, one on the left, adossé <3> to a modern Chapel. The other on the right, of singular form, & excellent preservation. We then reached the palace of Caserta which is not worth seeing – the Gardens are immense, & extend to another palace situated on the rise of the Apennines, which appeared to the eye very imposing from its interminable length of front. Not far from this latter building we observed a Cavern in the mountain, which considering its distance from the Eye (5 or 6 miles) must be immense indeed. From Caserta to Naples is 14 or 16 miles thro’ a most fertile plain covered with trees bearing vines (now all leafless) It fell dark before we reached Naples, where we alighted at the Hotel des Iles Britanniques a little before 7. This Inn is very excellent; close to the sea, beautiful view towards Posilipo, good cook, & good waiting – I recommend it strongly. Yesterday we saw some of the Carnival fun, & pelting of sugarplums, but we thought it dull & spiritless. The air of Naples breathes gaiety, & the Carnival alone appeared to us un peu triste <4> – Today we went to Virgils <5> Tomb; which overhangs the Grotto of Posilipo. There is an inscription on it of the 16th Century, in such bad Latin as to be unintelligible – The Scene was quite different from what I expected. The day has now turned to rain. Vesuvius we have seen but he is so constantly wrapt in mist & Clouds that as yet we can form no judgment of him. We have just taken Lodgings in a beautiful situation, close to the Sea, with a terrace that looks at Vesuvius, & the mountains of Castel-a-Mare & Sorrento together with the bay of Naples lined for 10 or 20 miles with an uninterrupted succession of white houses & villas. It is clean and comfortable for 100 ducats a month, or 18 Louis & a half – William <6> is looking very well indeed, & by no means worn down with the pressure of business, or diplomatic anxiety – My love to All –

Your affte Son
W.H.F. Talbot

Will you send me my Telescope – direct it to ‘Poste Restante’ & send it by the Courier Ask C. and H. <7> to begin their journal of the Weather with the day I went. Will you open & answer any invitations to dinner that come for me

Miladi Feilding
Palazzo Ceva
Roma

Notes:

1. See Doc. No: 01048, and Doc. No: 01049.

2. From top to bottom.

3. Backing on [to].

4. A little sad [lifeless, lack-lustre].

5. Virgil (70–15 BC), Roman poet

6. William Thomas Horner Fox Strangways, 4th Earl of Ilchester (1795–1865), botanist, art collector & diplomat.

7. Caroline Augusta Edgcumbe, née Feilding, Lady Mt Edgcumbe (1808–1881); WHFT’s half-sister, and Henrietta Horatia Maria Gaisford, née Feilding (1810–1851), WHFT’s half-sister.