Mount Edgcumbe <1>
Devonport
Novr 7th 1862
My dear Henry
You must have heard through Constance Amandier & Rosamond, <2> how much we enjoyed our visit at Speddoch. <3> We made an interesting journey after that, thro’ Carlisle, where we waited ½ an hour, & then on to Lancaster, where we slept at the King’s Arms – a very old house with a handsome staircase with twisted banisters of old oak. The Landlord has a taste for antiquities & objects of virtù, for on the staircase & landings & in some of the rooms, you see nothing but ancient carved furniture, & curious old bits of china standing on them, which must be in constant peril from waiters & visitors too. One large oak bedstead is worthy of Cotehele <4> – & the staircase is also hung with good pictures – so that one feels more as if in an old Country house than at an inn. The next day we stopt 3 hours at Chester, & drove about the town, admiring the very curious old streets & rows & the Cathedral – & then proceeded to Ludlow. The Inn there (the Feathers) is excessively old & picturesque tho’ not I suppose considered the best – as the people look [sic] surprized when we said we would go there instead of to the Angel. However we were quite satisfied, & it was very cheap. The Sittingroom was panelled with old carved oak – & had a fine ceiling of the same. This house was formerly the residence of the Governors of the Castle.
We walked next morning, which was fine & bright, to see the old Castle; & were quite enchanted with it. I was so glad you recommended us to stop there. It is one of the most picturesque & satisfactory ruins you can imagine. We saw the rooms inhabited by Edward V <5> & his brother, & those lived in by Prince Arthur, Henry 8th’s elder brother <6> –
In the centre of the 2nd court, stands a most singular round Norman chapel – which was disfigured by Queen Elizabeth. <7> She made a number of ill-judged improvements – particularly an opening in this chapel in order that she might sit in a gallery to which she made an access by a covered way from the State apartments.
We then went on through Hereford, Abergavenny, Newport & Cardiff, to Merthyr Mawr, <8> where we were received with open arms by a numerous cousinhood – & during our 5 days visit, some others came on purpose to see me, who had not been in Wales since I was 4 years old! We were very happy there – & Jane <9> was so dear & kind! She lamented sorely never seeing anything of you.
We drove one day to Margam, <10> where the three girls <11> received us & gave us tea, after shewing us the house, garden, ruins of the Abbey, & Orangetrees. Kit & Theodore <12> were out shooting, & only returned just as we were driving off. It was so dark I could hardly see their faces – but we had 8 miles to drive home, & could not stay. Kit pressed me very much to pay him a visit – but I could not comply, tho’ I should have liked it extremely, as I wanted to get home for Val’s <13> Birthday.
I remembered part of the garden quite well – particularly the pond where you & Kit used to float your fleets of yellow laurel leaves – & I remember the admiration with which I used to observe your skill in sending your ships from one side of the pond to the other, by moving the water with long poles.
Jane has got a list of the ships on the pond at that time, & letters of your’s [sic] & Kit’s, but could not find them to shew me.
I remembered also the monuments, with the figures kneeling on them in a row, in high relief – I really did remember them, because I enquired for them before seeing them. The ladies there & at Merthyr Mawr are excellent shots with a small rifle – & Kit has given prizes – (only among the cousins –) Kate Nicholl <14> one [sic] a pretty locket with opals & diamonds – Ernestine <15> tried most successfully, I also tried – & at 100 yds the first shot, I hit the bull’s eye – but alas! nothing but failures followed.
We left Merthyr Mawr on Tuesday, & crossed from Cardiff to Burnham in 1h & ¾ – too late to catch the Mail train. We waited 1h & ½ at Highbridge – & then 2h at Exeter, where we got into the Night Express & arrived at Plymouth at ½ p. 12. Next day we came over here; where we found Ly Brownlow <16> & the Edgcumbes – Charlie <17> arrived for dinner.
Tonight the Digbys <18> are coming, in their way to Carclew. <19>
Write to me soon – & try & cultivate some acquaintances at Edinburgh – for the girl’s [sic] sake
Yr affte Sister
Caroline
Notes:
1. Mt Edgecumbe, near Plymouth: seat of the Earl of Mt Edgcumbe.
2. Constance Talbot, née Mundy (1811–1880), WHFT’s wife, Amélina Petit De Billier, ‘Mamie’, ‘Amandier’ (1798–1876), governess and later close friend of the Talbot family [See Amélina's journal ], Rosamond Constance ‘Monie’ Talbot (1837–1906), artist & WHFT’s 2nd daughter.
3. Speddoch, Dumfriesshire, 10 mi NW of Dumfries: home of WHFT’s daughter Matilda.
4. Cotehele, Cornwall: ancient house, seat of the Earl of Mt Edgcumbe, now a National Trust Property.
5. Edward V (1470–1483), King of England.
6. Arthur (1486–1502), eldest son of Henry VII (1457–1509). His younger brother, Henry VIII (1491–1547) was created Prince of Wales upon the death of Arthur and became king of England in 1509.
7. Elizabeth (1533–1603), Queen of England and Ireland; only child of Henry VIII and his 2nd wife Anne Boleyn (1507–1536).
8. Merthyr Mawr, Glamorgan, on River Ogwr.
9. Jane Harriot Nicholl, née Talbot (1796–1874).
10. Margam Park, Glamorgan: home of Christopher Rice Mansel Talbot.
11. Kit’s daughters Emily, Bertha and Olivia.
12. Christopher Rice Mansel Talbot (1803–1890), immensely wealthy landowner, mathematician & politician; WHFT’s Welsh cousin, and Theodore Talbot.
13. William Henry Edgcumbe, ‘Val’, 4th Earl Mt Edgcumbe (1832–1917), JP & Ld Steward of the Royal Household; WHFT’s nephew ‘Bimbo’.
14. Kate Nicholl, daughter of Jane Harriet Nicholl.
15. Ernestine Emma Horatia Edgcumbe (16 Aug 1843-1925), WHFT's niece.
16. Lady Brownlow, wife John Cust (1779–1853), 1st Earl Brownlow.
17. Charles Earnest Edgcumbe (1838–1915), JP, WHFT’s nephew.
18. Theresa Anna Maria Digby, née Fox Strangways (1814-1874), WHFT's cousin; and her husband, Edward Digby, 9th Baron Digby (1809 –1889).
19. Carclew, Cornwall, 3 mi N of Penryn: seat of Sir Charles Lemon.
20. Charlotte Louisa 'Charry' Traherne, née Talbot (1800–1880), WHFT’s cousin and Louisa Gallwey (1811-1872), dau of Lt Gen Sir William Payne Gallwey, 1st Bart (1759-1831) and Lady Harriet Payne Gallwey (1784-1845), née Quin.