Gersau, <1> lake of Lucerne
June 27th 1821.
This little village was once an independent Republic, but since the revolution it has been merged in the canton of Schweitz. The coiffure of the women here is very curious, but I can neither draw nor describe it. They look something like butterflies. When we left you yesterday we ascended the mountain which divides the cantons of Berne & Unterwalden. The count rode to the top of the mountain, I walked all the way. We got to Lungern on the lake of the same name in the evening. We set out this morning at seven oclock & crossed the lake of Lungern in a boat. It is small but very beautiful, a perfect tableau. Getting out of the boat, a few minutes walk brought us in sight of the lake of Sarnen, lying in a valley below us. A little stream runs from one lake to the other. The <illegible deletion> fall is immense in the course of only 3 or 4 miles which separate the lakes, being several hundred feet. In one place it falls over a rock, a considerable height, but there is not water enough. I suppose they might enlarge the outlet as much as they pleased and so make the grandest cascade in the world. On reaching the lake of Sarnen the count embarked but I walked, as the lake is dull & several miles long. We reached Sarnen at ½ past 10 It is the capital of Unterwalden, & a very shabby capital it is. After bread & cheese we got a char & drove to Alpnach on the bank of the lake of Lucerne. Dined there, mine host is the best specimen I have seen of a Swiss landlord. His book is full of nothing but praises from English Travellers – Here we parted with the guide, not wanting him any further; besides he was getting out of his beat. Embarked again at 3 oclock & reached this place at ½ past 6, the lake is quite divine, as smooth as a mirror & the evening beautiful. Saw Lucern <sic> at a great distance. The scenery is much less savage than the Bernese lakes, the houses far better, & the whole scene changes every half hour by an abrupt turn in the Lake. The Rigiberg & Pilatusberg overlook the lake on opposite sides, the latter is very imposing. Gersau is delightfully situated on the edge of the lake, with a pretty church, & a churchyard full of monumental crosses – I bought today a pair of Chamois horns for 2 franks – We have traversed the whole breadth of the canton of Unterwalden today. We saw on the bank of the lake an image of a Saint in a little cell, which brought an anecdote into the count’s memory. Sometime ago on the banks of the Rhine he was overtaken by a shower of rain, & on looking about for shelter, he spied a Saint in a cell. So thinking a we<tting?> <2> would do the saint no harm he takes him out, & gets in, in his stead; – Bye & bye along comes a peasant girl & falls on her knees as she used to do, before the saint – But on perceiving the metamorphosis which that holy personage had undergone, she ran away screaming; never doubting, I daresay, that is was the devil, ou quelq’un de sa part. <3> –
Your affte Son
W.H.F. Talbot
À Miladi
Miladi Elisabeth Feilding
Poste Restante
à Berne
Notes:
1. Gersau, Schwyz canton, Switzerland.
2. Text torn away under seal.
3. Or someone on his behalf.