Lucern, <1>
June 30th 1821
My last letter left me at Gersau. Next morning we set out at 8 oclock, & went on the lake to the end, at Fluellen. We [illegible deletion] stopped on the way to see Grütli the meadow where the 3 chiefs <2> swore to assist eachother [sic]; & the Chapel called Telles Platte <3> where he <4> leaped on the Rock. From Fluellen we walked to Altorf the capital of the Canton of Uri, where we arrived at Noon. I paced the distance where Tell shot at the apple, & found it 100 paces. After dinner we drove to Burglen to see the chapel that stands on the spot where Tell’s house was – We returned to Altorf & on the lake back to Brunnen. Then walked to Schwitz, the capital of the Canton of the same name, a pleasant town agreeably situated at the foot of a lofty isolated mountain with two peaks – We slept there. The coiffure of Schwytz is like that of Gersau, extended & embellished. It’s like the crest of a large white cockatoo, with if he had in addition a plume of lofty black feathers growing [illegible deletion] on his head. Next morning was rainy, we set out at 11, & two hours brought us along the banks of the lake of Lowertz to the site of the unfortunate village of Goldau which was overwhelmed <5> beneath the ruins of a mountain on the 2d September 1806, about five oclock in the Afternoon – 472 persons perished, while only fourteen escaped. We went over this scene of desolation, it is inconceivable how such immense rocks should not only have crossed the valley, but ascended half way up the mountain on the opposite side. A person would have thought himself in perfect safety, where these blocks have reached to. The day before we had seen the places of two smaller éboulemens <6> on the banks of the lake of Lucerne. One of which fell about 20 years ago, the other only 3 weeks back, which agitated the water of the lake so much as to carry away a boathouse on its brink. – From Goldau 4 hours more brought us to the top of the Rigi. We walked very slow – After admiring the view we dined & proceeded to the other inn placed on the Rigi Kulm or highest pinnacle. Just as we got there we were enveloped in clouds which soon turned to heavy rain, & so closed the evening. – Today the trumpet informed us sunrise was near. We got up & found the morning not unfavourable – the wind however was piercing cold. It is not an expedition for ladies, the sunset indeed would be well enough – It was exactly 4 oclock when we first perceived the Sun had risen on the Jungfrau & her companions of the Oberland. Next the Titlis mountain caught the Sun, & then the range of snowy alps in Uri, Glarus, & the Grisons – and at 6 minutes past 4, the Sun rose to us on the Rigi, from behind a distant bank of clouds which had retarded his rising some minutes, to every part of the country equally. We returned to the Inn, breakfasted, walked about the mountain, descended to the lower inn & breakfasted again, with as good an appetite as before: & at 8 oclock set out on our return. At 11 we reached Tell’s Chapel, on the spot where he killed Gessler, <7> in a hollow way near Kussnacht. This is I think the most interesting of all the memorials we have seen of him. We then visited the ruins of Gesslers castle, on a mount shaded by trees, & a few minutes more brought us to Kussnacht, where we embarked, & reached Lucern at ½ past 4 oclock, where we had to produce our passports!!!
My love to All, Your Affte Son
W.H.F. Talbot
À Miladi
Miladi Elisabeth Feilding
Poste Restante
à Berne
Notes:
1. Lucern or Lucerne, Switzerland.
2. Known as the Rütli meadow, a legendary meeting place of the founders of the Swiss Confederation, on the west bank of the Lake Lucerne.
3. Known as Tellskapelle or Tell’s Chapel, a monument to the legend of William Tell, lying at the Lake of the Four Cantons between Sisikon and Flüelen.
4. He refers to William Tell’s leap from the boat in which the bailiff Gessler was taking him to prison.
5. Also known as “Goldauer landslip.”
6. Landslides.
7. Gessler, the tyrannical Austrian bailiff of Uri.