Munich
2 June 1842
My Dear Mother
I think Caroline <1> has treated the master of the inn a good deal better than me, for she has written to him to say she is coming today or tomorrow – But the information is welcome, by whatever means it comes to me. The hot weather has recommenced. Today we had a grand procession of priests & devotees & others past my window – They were bareheaded & could evidently scarcely bear the sun – It was a pretty spectacle – The costumes of the priests & friars offered the most striking contrasts, some all splendid others squalid & selfmortified. I wrote you a long letter yesterday, so have not much left to say today. I have made acquaintance with Professor Steinheil, <2> a very Eminent Physiker or as we say Natural Philosopher He disputes with Mr Wheatstone <3> the first invention of the improved electric Telegraphs.
I found Dr Schafhaeütl <4> with him, who has invented a particular method of photography He makes his plates of polished charcoal (not so convenient as paper I should think) but as the result must have a very peculiar effect I am curious to see some of them. He generally resides at Swansea, and oscillates between there and this his native city. The large size & ample façade of the houses in Munich, Frankfort & other cities of Germany strikes one much after the squeezy appearance of London houses, only 2 or 3 windows in front. Plenty of room, plenty of light, are the characteristics here. Streets wide, as if land had no value. Trees must be common here, for this morning I noticed rows of them in full vigour along the streets, where none grew yesterday. – On inspection I found they were all cut off and brought fresh from the woods in honour of the procession!
Constance <5> imagines that going post thro’ Germany must be delightful. Not exactly that. – Imagine the neighbourhood of Ulm; Scene – barren plains as far as eye can reach. Pace five miles an hour, and a broiling sun. The Railroad from Augsburg here, is a wonderful comfort, it saves the ennui of the last 40 miles – all flat – and by the way crosses the finest piece of turf I ever saw, Newmarket can be nothing to it, for it extends many miles – This railway has no fence which seems dangerous, but I noticed neither cattle, sheep, or horse whatever on the plains except in one place where many hundred oxen stood crowded together having hardly room to move, which to me, not knowing the why or wherefore appears somewhat extraordinary.
Your affte
Henry
Lady E. Feilding
31 Sackville St
London
[frrg?]
Notes:
1. Caroline Augusta Edgcumbe, née Feilding, Lady Mt Edgcumbe (1808–1881); WHFT’s half-sister.
2. Carl August von Steinheil (1801–1870), astronomer, physicist and optician.
3. Sir Charles Wheatstone (1802–1875), scientist.
4. Dr Karl Emil von Schafhäutl (1803–1890), photographer, music theorist & geologist.
5. Constance Talbot, née Mundy (1811–1880), WHFT’s wife.