Silvaplana
30th July
My Dear Constance
I think St Moritz and its environs a failure. In one respect only does it come up to my expectations – it is cold as I expected. Today the weather is glacial and as much rain keeps falling, it is best to remain a good deal within doors. The higher mountains are covered with new fallen snow – I wrote to Rosamond <1> from hence, & to Ela <2> from the baths, which I hope have been received. There is but poor accomodation <sic> here, no books or newspapers in the inn, to read when it rains (which it generally does) & the table d’hôte very meagre indeed –
I had got so far in my letter when noisy people entered, so I took a turn out of doors in the humid atmosphere, till they were gone. I can understand that people who derive immense benefit from the Chalybeate waters may excuse all shortcomings, but they would probably come early in the season & secure good apartments & bring everything they wanted with them. This place is 5500 feet above the sea.
It is buried in snow during several months of the winter, but nevertheless there is a beautiful plant of Dielytra spectabilis now in flower in a garden. How hardy that plant must be! I wonder it is not more commonly cultivated in Scotland. I shall recommend it to Tillie <3> –
In many Italian towns in the N. W. of Italy I have observed an institution, a kind of Club, called the Offelleria, which does not look like an Italian word. If I am not very much mistaken it is adopted from the English language, being neither more nor less than what we call Odd Fellows!
I have just received Monie’s brief note of last Monday – I am so glad to hear that the weather has become cooler at Venice. Please now to direct to me at Lacock, as I propose to stop hardly anywhere after leaving this.
What is really pleasing here is the Chain of lakes and the beautiful river Inn which joins them together – the lake of Silvaplana is just what one would like to have in one’s park – and the lake of St Moritz is such another. the lake of Sils is sterner and larger, more in the stile of Wastwater or Ennerdale water in Cumberland.
Love to all Your affte
Henry
Notes:
1. Rosamond Constance ‘Monie’ Talbot (1837–1906), artist & WHFT’s 2nd daughter.
2. Ela Theresa Talbot (1835–1893), WHFT’s 1st daughter.
3. Matilda Caroline Gilchrist-Clark, ‘Tilly’, née Talbot (1839–1927), WHFT’s 3rd daughter.