Zurich August 2d
My Dear Constance
Yesterday morning I proceeded from Churwalden to Chur. It is a charming drive of 7 miles down hill – green mountains and hanging woods. At Chur I went to see the Cathedral, the most ancient church in Switzerld & one of the oldest in Europe, founded by St Lucius an Englishman, but not (as they pretend) Kind of England. The intelligent Sacristan Showed me all the curious reliquaries crucifixes &c presents to the Church in those remote ages & since.
In the evening I took the railway to Ragatz, a drive of ½ hour. I never saw a place so changed as Ragatz. When I first went there in 1821 the inn was the worst which I ever met with in the course of my extended travels. I was too glad to leave it at 4 in the morning, and go to the baths of Pfeffors. When you were there in 1833 the inn was neither good nor bad. – Now Ragatz is a great fashionable watering place Two large first class hotels the Hof Ragatz, and the Tamina six or eight smaller hotels & pensions – avenues planted & large gardens – they evidently expect to rival Baden Baden – Music in the evening in the gardens – By the way there is a great sameness of amusement in all the watering places –
Today I took the rail to Zurich all that part which skirts the lake of Wallensladt was delightful. The weather is bright sunshine but not hot like Italy. Zurich is as full as an egg with travellers. I proceed to Bâle tomorrow.
Your affte
Henry
Hope my letter from Churwalden was received.