Rheims
11th August 1828
My Dear Mother
I only write to let you know that I am well, for this country affords no materials for a letter. The evening I landed I went on to Boulogne; next day I went to Abbeville; the next to Montdidier, and yesterday I arrived here long after dark. – This morning it pours wretchedly, so that I don’t suppose I shall get further than Vitry sur Marne. –
With the exception of Amiens Cathedral <1> there is very little to see on this road; I have seen that cathedral several times before but it is always worth a visit. I saw also the cathedral at Abbeville, <2> but it is not very striking – I traversed the forest of Compiegne yesterday, and have noticed some pleasant valleys but in general as you know it is a miserable chalk country covered with corn. I hired a carriage from Rignolle at Calais to take me to Geneva. He made me pay 10£ for the hire. It is a sad concern but I hope will not need repair on the journey. The worst is that I can hardly read in it owing to the bad pavé <3> and its own crazy structure, so that the fatigue of the journey is doubled. I would rather steam 500 miles down the Rhine than travel 100 in the north of France.
Yours afftly
H.T.
Chaumont en Bassigny,
12th August
This place is the cheflieu <4> of the department of the Haute Marne. I mean to sleep here tonight, as it is too far to go on to Langres. Yesterday before I left Rheims I visited the cathedral: <5> It is very grand – I don’t suppose there is so much painted glass in any other cathedral. I counted no less than forty-two immense stained windows, most of them beautiful – They range the whole length of the Cathedral, & at both ends – The Roof had been new done for the sacre <6> of Charles X, <7> painted in blue & spangled with fleurs de Lys. I left Rheims at Noon & crossed dismal plains to Châlons sur Marne – In this unpromising country however is situated Sillery where such good Champagne comes from, so that one ought not to judge from appearances – I dined at Chalons [sic], where I got into the great Strasburg road, which is far worse than the cross roads – Indeed approaching Vitry it is so wretched that one must go a foot’s pace, not without danger of being every instant upset. I slept at Vitry. This morning I followed the high road as far as St Dizier thro’ a very uninteresting tract, except when enlivened by some vineyards – At St Dizier I quitted it for a cross country road, and instantly the country grew prettier, and the road better. I followed the course of the Marne all day sometimes in very pretty scenery between the river on one side & a woody bank on the other; but the river is of a very muddy colour. – I have seen only one spot yet since I landed that can be called at all picturesque; it is the descent to the last station, a village called Vignory there is a ruined tower & a woody valley. –
From Langres (4 posts hence) Mont Blanc is said to be visible, I shall look out for it. The roads improved greatly this afternoon; In the dep. of Marne they are truly deplorable. – I hope you received the letter I wrote at Calais –
Lady E. Feilding
Lacock Abbey
Chippenham
Angleterre
Notes:
1. Also called Notre-Dame d’Amiens, built in France during the 13th century.
2. Gothic church of Saint-Vulfran, built in the 15th – 17th centuries.
3. Road surface.
4. Capital.
5. Cathedral of Notre-Dame, built in the 13th century.
6. Consecration, coronation. It was the prerogative for the archbishop of Reims to consecrate the kings of France. Charles X was the last to be crowned there, in 1824.
7. Charles X, also called Charles-Philippe, Comte D’artois (1757–1836), King of France from 1824 to 1830.