Albergo della Torre di Londra
Verona
Friday 23rd October 1874
My dear Henry
I think you will like to hear form me from this dear old town; the first I have come to that makes me really feel one is in Italy – for Turin & Milan, from both of which I have just come, never gave me that feeling at any time & more, after the lapse of years, they seem to me to have still further lost all Italian characteristics. The Hotels & shops are so entirely frenchified, & even Anglicised – & there are such quantities of new buildings, (very handsome no doubt), that it is impossible to feel as much interest in them Even as one did formerly, Fancy too going all through Pie’mont & Lombardy, & never once seeing polenta, gressins or toasted chestnuts – Nothing but French dishes on the Carte! – I intended to have written to you before but have had so much correspondence with Baron’s Court, that I have scarcely had time for any other.
You heard how ill poor Ernestine <1> was, from the first day of her arrival there – I did not understand at first what a serious attack it was, as they were very guarded in writing to me – & as she herself wrote very cheerful letters almost Every day, I imagined it was only a slight indisposition. I am thankful to say that she appears to be now quite will again – but no sooner had she got well, than [illegible deletion] poor Bertha, my 2nd granddaughter had a dangerous attack of diptheria a most horrid complaint – & of which I believe she was in danger for some days – But in the last account I had from Ernestine, she said she was out of danger & going on quite well – in fact she had been up for an hour & ½– But it is sad for poor Val <2> to have so many anxieties – I am so sorry for him! He talked of coming home again next week – but of course nothing was decided when E. wrote.
We came here on Wednesday in 3½ hours from Milan – passing close to Bergamo, (which I never was at before) – Such a pretty picturesque place on a hill – backed by some other very high ones. The railway then goes by Brescia, Desenzano, & Veschiera – all old friends. But I have not yet told you of the part of the road new to me – the road between Cambéry & Turin, We left the only old line of road thro’ the Valley of the Maurienne at Modane – & instead of following the valley, made a semi circle round it – thus:
[illustration]
ascending at the same time to a great height.
There are in all 40 tunnels of various lengths – about 20 on Each Side of the pass The tunnel is the only part of the railway with a double line of rails yet it is lit by large lamps at certain distances (at a guess I shd say every kilometre), which indicate at the same time the distance one has traversed. The whole thing is a wonderful work of skill & enterprise. I was afraid of felling a want of air in the tunnel – but such was not the case, Tho’ a little hot in one place, there was no feeling of suffocation & towards the Italian road there are many large apertures in the side, which let in light & air.
It took exactly 28 minutes to traverse. I hope to go on in a day or two to Venice, for a short stay only – but if you will write to me Poste Restante Milano I shall get it in my way back – Only you must write directly
Love to all –
Yr affte Sister
Caroline
Notes:
1. Ernestine Emma Horatia Edgcumbe (16 August 1843 -1925), WHFT’s niece.
2. William Henry Edgcumbe, ‘Val’, 4th Earl Mt Edgcumbe (1832–1917), JP & Ld Steward of the Royal Household; WHFT’s nephew ‘Bimbo’. He had recently lost his wife. [See Doc. No: 03626].